Plenty of Australian homeowners have built real equity in their property without any clear idea of how to turn it into money they can actually use. Cash out refinancing is the usual route: you replace your current home loan with a larger one and take the difference in cash.
The mechanics are simple. Deciding whether it suits you is less so, because the cheapest rate is not always the cheapest outcome, and lenders will want to know what you plan to do with the money before they release it. This guide covers how much you can realistically access, what it costs, what lenders ask for, and when a smaller, shorter loan beats tapping the house.
Cash out refinancing replaces your existing home loan with a larger one and releases the difference to you. The new lender pays out your old mortgage, and the gap becomes available funds. Your total debt goes up by that amount.
The money can land in your account, sit in an offset account, or be held in a separate split ready to draw. Because the debt is secured against your property, the rate is far lower than a personal loan or a credit card, and well below most debt consolidation loan rates. That lower rate is the attraction, and it is also where people get caught, for reasons covered below.
A refinance cashback is a payment a lender makes to win your business when you switch. Cash out is your own equity being released as additional borrowing, which you repay with interest. The two sometimes appear in the same conversation and they are entirely different things.
This is where expectations usually need adjusting. Your raw equity is the property value minus what you owe. Your usable equity is what a lender will actually advance, and most work to 80 per cent of the valuation before lenders mortgage insurance enters the picture.
| Scenario | Maximum loan | Cash released | LMI |
|---|---|---|---|
| Property worth $900,000, owing $450,000 | Raw equity | $450,000 | Not available in practice |
| Borrow to 80% LVR | $720,000 | $270,000 | None |
| Borrow to 90% LVR | $810,000 | $360,000 | Payable, commonly $10,000 to $25,000 or more |
So on paper there is $450,000 of equity, and in practice $270,000 of it is reachable without paying insurance. That $180,000 gap is the single biggest surprise in most first conversations about cash out.
Everything above hangs off the lender's valuation, not the figure from a property website or what the neighbour's place sold for. A valuation that comes in below expectations reduces your usable equity dollar for dollar. If the number matters to your plan, get a realistic view of it before you commit to anything that depends on the funds.
Cash out is not a no-questions-asked withdrawal. Lenders ask what the money is for as part of the assessment, and the answer affects whether it is approved and how much is released.
| Purpose | Usually a reasonable fit | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Investment property deposit | Yes | Structure it as a separate split so the tax position stays clean |
| Renovation that adds value | Yes | Quotes usually required; interest is not deductible on your own home |
| Consolidating high rate debt | Sometimes | Stretching card debt over 25 years can cost more than it saves |
| Car, wedding, school fees | Sometimes | Under about $30,000 a shorter personal loan is often cheaper overall |
| Business funding | Often not | Restricted at many lenders under residential policy |
There are two costs: the fees to do the refinance, and the interest on the extra borrowing. The fees are small and knowable. The interest is where the damage usually happens.
| Cost | Typical amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mortgage discharge fee | About $315 | Charged by the lender you are leaving |
| Application and settlement fees | About $584 | Varies, and is sometimes waived |
| Valuation | $200 to $600 | Often covered by the new lender |
| Title search | $30 to $50 | |
| Government registration and deregistration | $100 to $200 each | Set by your state |
| Break costs on a fixed rate | Potentially thousands | Calculated at the time, not quoted up front |
| LMI, if above 80% LVR | $10,000 to $25,000 or more | Not refundable and not transferable between lenders |
Deferred establishment fees, the old exit fees, were banned in July 2011. Loans signed before that date may still carry one, so check your contract, but on any loan written since then the charge to leave is a discharge fee of a few hundred dollars, not a penalty. Plenty of articles still list exit fees as a standard refinancing cost. They are out of date.
Take $30,000 of borrowing. Added to a home loan at 5.9 per cent and repaid over the remaining 25 years, it costs about $27,438 in interest. The same $30,000 as a five year personal loan at 12 per cent, a rate more than double, costs about $10,040.
The home loan rate is less than half, and it costs nearly three times as much. The term does that, not the rate.
The fix is to repay the released amount on its own accelerated schedule rather than letting it ride for 25 years. That takes either a separate split with a shorter term or the discipline to make extra repayments against it every month without fail.
The same arithmetic applies to your whole loan. On the $900,000 property above, going from $450,000 to $720,000 lifts the repayment from about $2,872 to about $4,595 a month at 5.9 per cent over 25 years, an increase of roughly $1,723. Run your own figures through the loan repayment calculator and check them against your actual budget before the application, not after.
Property value times 0.8, minus what you owe. That is your starting point before any lender specific policy.
Not "some renovations" but which work, costing what, with quotes. The purpose drives both approval and the structure.
One loan or a split. If any part of the money is for an investment, this decision is made now, not later.
Maximum cash out, evidence requirements and acceptable purposes differ enormously. The cheapest rate is no use if the policy declines your purpose.
Payslips or tax returns, your current loan statements, a rates notice, several months of bank statements, and a statement of assets and liabilities.
The lender values the property and confirms the amount. This is where plans adjust if the valuation disappoints.
The new lender discharges your old mortgage and releases the difference as you have instructed. Allow a few weeks end to end.
Interest is generally deductible where the borrowed money is used to produce income, such as buying an investment property or shares. It is not deductible for a renovation on your own home, a car or a holiday, even though the debt is secured against property and even though it sits inside a home loan.
The trap is mixing purposes in one loan. Draw $200,000 where $150,000 goes to an investment deposit and $50,000 to a new kitchen, put it all in one account, and you have a mixed purpose loan that is awkward to apportion and gets worse every time you make a repayment. The standard fix is a separate split for the investment portion, set up at the start.
We are not tax agents. Get the structure confirmed with your accountant before settlement, because it is far easier to set up correctly than to unpick afterwards.
Cash out is one of the clearest cases for comparing lenders rather than asking your own bank. Rate matters, but policy decides whether the application proceeds at all: maximum cash out, what evidence is accepted, which purposes are allowed, and how the splits are structured.
Everest Home Loans reviews home loan products across more than 40 lenders and holds platinum broker status with Commonwealth Bank, Westpac and NAB. What a mortgage broker does in practice here is match your purpose to a lender whose policy accepts it, before an application goes anywhere near your credit file.
That matters more for applicants whose circumstances do not fit a standard template, including overseas savings, business income, or borrowing on a temporary visa. We offer consultations in English, Nepali and Hindi.
Cash out refinancing is a useful tool when the money is going somewhere that earns or saves more than the debt costs: an investment deposit, a renovation that adds real value, or high rate debt you will genuinely clear. It is a poor tool for spreading a modest expense across 25 years at a rate that looks cheap and is not.
Before you commit, settle three things: what the valuation actually supports, what the total cost is over the full term rather than per month, and how the loan should be split if any part of it is for investment. Get those right and the rest is paperwork.
Everest Home Loans works with homeowners and investors across Melbourne, Sydney, Perth, Brisbane and Adelaide. We will check the policy and the structure before anything touches your credit file.
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As a starting point, 80 per cent of the lender's valuation minus what you still owe. On a $900,000 property with a $450,000 loan that is $270,000, even though your raw equity is $450,000.
Going above 80 per cent is possible with some lenders but triggers lenders mortgage insurance, commonly $10,000 to $25,000 or more, which is not refundable and does not transfer if you move lenders later. The valuation, your income and the lender's policy all move the final figure.
Yes. Lenders assess the purpose as part of the application, and many require supporting evidence such as quotes for a renovation, a contract for a purchase, or a statutory declaration. Larger amounts attract more scrutiny.
Business use is restricted at a good number of lenders under standard residential policy. If that is your purpose, say so early, because it narrows the list of lenders considerably.
The rate is much lower. The total cost often is not, because the term is so much longer. Borrowing $30,000 against your home at 5.9 per cent over a remaining 25 years costs about $27,438 in interest. The same amount as a five year personal loan at 12 per cent costs about $10,040.
For amounts under roughly $30,000, a shorter loan is frequently the cheaper answer. Cash out wins where the amount is large, the purpose is productive, or you will repay the released portion on an accelerated schedule.
The application creates a credit enquiry, which can cause a small dip. Australia has no rate shopping window, so several applications in a short period are recorded separately and read as a risk signal rather than bundled together. Compare first and apply once.
Consistent on time repayments afterwards do more for your file over time than the enquiry costs you.
Yes, and it is one of the most common reasons people do it. Equity from your home covers the deposit and purchase costs such as stamp duty and conveyancing without draining savings. The property buying cost calculator totals those up.
Structure it as a separate split from the start. Keeping the investment borrowing in its own loan makes the interest straightforward to identify, which matters at tax time. Confirm the structure with your accountant before settlement.
It depends entirely on what the money is used for, not on what secures it. Borrowing used to produce income, such as an investment property or shares, generally gives deductible interest. Borrowing for a renovation on your own home, a car or a holiday does not, even though it sits inside a home loan.
Mixing both purposes in a single loan creates an apportionment problem that compounds with every repayment. We are not tax agents, so take the structure to your accountant before you settle.
Typically $500 to $1,000 in fees when switching lenders: a discharge fee of around $315, application and settlement fees of around $584, a valuation of $200 to $600 if not covered, a title search, and state government registration fees.
Two larger items sit outside that range. Break costs if you are leaving a fixed rate, which can run to thousands and are only calculated at the time. And LMI if the new loan exceeds 80 per cent of the valuation. Exit fees were banned in 2011 and do not apply to loans written since.
Rajesh Kandel
Director and Senior Mortgage Broker at Everest Home Loans. A mortgage broker since 2015, Rajesh works with first home buyers, refinancers, temporary visa holders and investors across Australia, with multilingual support in English, Nepali and Hindi.
This article is general information only and does not take your objectives, financial situation or needs into account. It is not tax advice. Lender policies, rates and fees change, and the figures quoted were current at the date of publication. Worked examples are illustrations based on the stated rates and terms and assume no fees, no extra repayments and no change in rate. Consider whether the information is appropriate for you, and seek your own credit and taxation advice before acting. Kandel & Co Pty Ltd trading as Everest Home Loans, ACR 506833. Rajesh Kandel, Authorised Credit Representative 476341 of Connective Credit Services Pty Ltd, ABN 77 161 731 111, Australian Credit Licence 389328.
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Kandel & Co Pty Ltd t/a Everest Home Loans is an Authorised Credit Representative – 506833, and Rajesh Kandel is an Authorised Credit Representative number – 476341 of Connective Credit Services Pty Ltd ABN 77 161 731 111 (Australian Credit Licence No.389328).
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